The Price of Art

On Sunday, though hoping for a day to sleep and rest, I rose early in the morning and went to the Prado Museum. As i have stated many times before, the Prado is one of the greatest museums in the world, and every time I go, I see something new. This morning, though, i was not there for the paintings. I had read on Facebook, the night before, that the Prado conducted tours to see the famous ceiling by Luca Giordano in El Cason del Buen Retiro. El Cason del Buen Retiro is one of two remaining parts of El Palacio del Buen Retiro, a luxurious pleasure palace built for the kings outside the city of Madrid, surrounded by a giant park and gardens, now known as El Parque del Buen Retiro. The palace was later destroyed by enemy soldiers. Admission to see the ceiling was free with a ticket to El Prado, and so, i went. The ceiling was an absolute wonder. Hundreds of figures from mythology were alive on the ceiling, lions, dragons, and cherubs floated. It was amazing to see that large a composition still intact after hundreds of years. Later, i went across the street to see the other part of the palace. Until recently it was the war museum of Spain (which has since been moved to the Alcazar de Toledo which i wrote about a few weeks ago). Inside now, is a temporary exhibition of architecture and the building is in transition to become a place of public exhibitions. Some of the original rooms of the palace are still intact, though neglected, and there is even an obligatory Moorish Room inspired by the Alhambra of Granada (which i am going to after Spring Break). I then reentered the Prado and went to see my favorite paintings by El Greco, Las Majas by Goya, and La Maninas by Velasquez. After a quick browse through the discounted items from past exhibitions such as Turner and the Masters ( which I have also written about), i bought a modern version of La Enfanta from a street artist and went home to finish studying for my Business examination. As a side note, last week I had finished my transfer request to return to Boston for the coming fall, hoping to beat the housing rush, and promptly received a confirmation this week. Also, my Senora is allowing me to have a small dinner party for my birthday this weekend. Tortilla de patata and burritos con carne are both on the list. For dessert are gluten free cake and crepes con chocolate, i cannot wait! 

Sometimes its Better to Buy the Postcard...

Midterms are this week and everyone at SUMC is excited for spring break. This past weekend, as a trip to get my mind off of midterms, i fulfilled a childhood dream of going to Segovia, Spain to see the Alcazar. Ever since i was in 3rd grade, almost every text book i received, whether it was literature or mathematics, had the iconic picture of Segovia’s Alcazar. Shortly before i came to Spain, i saw the same picture, and realized that it was an easy day-trip from Madrid, i swore right then to visit before i returned home. Saturday morning, a few friends, 2 from SUMC, and another from Paris, and I took the direct bus from Pricipe Pio for around 12 euros round-trip and arrived at Segovia in less than an hour. On the way we saw the mountains covered in snow, and even The Valley of the Fallen under a heavy, swirling mist. A few steps up the road from the bus station and we immediately saw the roman aqueduct. It was only a few minutes’ walk in order to stand under its great girth. A bit of stairs and we were level with the top of the aqueduct, and even with the old town. Between Segovia´s tow extremities, the Alcazar and the Aqueduct, is its Plaza Mayor, and Cathedral. Both were quaint, even in the pouring rain, and there were many shops selling handmade Spanish crafts and pieces of beautiful art. A word of caution, Segovia continues to cling to the traditional Spanish way of long leisure lunches and naps, so if you go in the morning and see an open shop that you fancy, enter, because when you return it will more than likely be closed for an extended siesta. After shopping, the next stop was the Alcazar. Initially, i was excited, though a bit upset, as the iconic image was not visible as the front is on a highs cliff overlooking the countryside. The tour with an audio guide (always recommended) was fantastic and i even paid a bit extra to climb the original medieval tower, a claustrophobic 200 step circular staircase, to an amazing view. As i excited the palace, i could not help but feel drawn to try and see that perfect view of the castle. I saw a set of stairs leading down the ravine that separates the old-town from the countryside, and i just had to descend, not knowing what i was getting into. The steps were pure mud, making the descent almost perilous. The so called stairs went through large sections of dense overgrowth and past gloomy. After 45 minutes of terror i reached the base and began walking on the only road, void of people, trying to get the right view of the castle. Though i finally saw the view, i wanted to get closer, and so ended up taking a dirt path, now mud, up the other side of the ravine. There, again, were no people, and much undergrowth. I finally was able to have the postcard picture of what i remembered as a child and was content. As I stood there, my friends called to say that they were going back to Madrid having finished lunch. As i hung up the phone and looked around me, i realized that i had no idea where i was, or how to get back. I could see the Alcazar but couldn’t get to it. So, i continued along the paths and through more woods and veered onto more dirt paths. I finally found a highway and descended onto it, hoping that it led to the city center, i didn´t and again i was lost and, more importantly, soaking wet. The story does end happily though. I found the Jewish cemetery outside the town and followed a series of markers that led from the cemetery to the Jewish quarter in the old town that i remembered seeing on my way to the Alcazar. I was soon at an outdoor stall buying a terra cotta pig and hurrying to get the next bus back to Madrid. Though i did get the perfect picture, i do not recommend anyone ever wandering in the country by themselves. A small town is much more conducive to exploring, but the countryside, especially alone, is dangerous. But, overall, the day was wonderful. I was finally able to fulfill a childhood dream and was thrilled to see an amazing Spanish city.

Blackmailed by My Desire to Wander

Fountain in the Island Garden

False lake and buidlings in the Prince´s Garden

Casa del Labrador

After an exhausting trip to Lisbon a week ago, i decided to relax for the weekend. No trips, no papers, and especially no walking. But, just as i was beginning to enjoy a stress-free weekend, i opened my inbox to find an email from the school. Every Friday, each student at SUMC receives a short newsletter telling of all the interesting places and events taking place in Madrid that coming weekend. I have seen many of the places that have been previously listed, though this weekend there was something different. On the newsletter was a stunning photograph of a palace, somewhere in between Hapsburg austerity and the Bourbon baroque, all done in red brick and gray stone-they called it El Palacio Real de Aranjuez. I was immediately undone with desire to see the palace and its impressive gardens for myself. That Saturday morning, i went by bus to Atocha station bought a ticket on the Cercanias for around 3 euros and off i went. After a 40 minute ride, and a 12 minute walk, i saw the palace. It was much more impressive than the photograph allowed, and the palace tour, which i always strongly recommend to be accompanied with an audio guide a guide book of the building, was fantastic. The additional exhibition of items from the daily lives of the royal family was intriguing especially the exhibition showing the wedding gowns of the current queen, the current crown princess, and her sisters-in-law. The gardens, also toured with an audio guide, were massive spanning many smaller gardens and parterres. Fountains placed throughout the gardens, as well as a false lake with a temple and pagoda, a false mountain that can be scaled to find a small pagoda, winding paths, grottos, islands, and even a smaller palace built for the relaxation of the king called Casa del Labrador. After making an appointment, i was able to tour the small palace, which was an absolute jewel-box. Though smaller than the main residence, the palace was gilded and covered in marble in its interior. Each ceiling held a different painting, most in the Pompeian style, and the wall coverings and porcelain floors were still original. Another not to miss part of the gardens is a museum totally dedicated to the pleasure barges used by the royals when they stayed at Aranjuez. The day was amazing and worth missing a relaxation day.

Lisbon Shook My World

Me at the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

Tour de Belem at sunset

My favorite Professor of English and me at Cabo de Roca

Castles, rivers, beaches, palaces, monasteries, Fado....Lisbon Portugal has been one of the most incomprehensibly marvelous places i have ever visited, and to think, i almost didn´t get to go. Early Friday morning i raced through the metro, up three escalators, and out into the coldness of early morning. The streets were deserted, and the only light came from the rusty streetlamps. It was almost 630, and i knew that my tired feet might be forced to return this same way in a few minutes. Choking on the frigid air, i spied the bus, already filled with chatting students, scarves and gloves being tossed as the heat sun- in through their wrappings. I knew i was on the list but...Amy came out of the bus, shook her head, told me there was no room. I stood, the cold penetrating my coat and scarf, swirling around in my throat in stomach. I could not think. Moments later she returned, having recounted, no change. I pushed my small bag over against a low wall and tossed by lunch of tortilla on top, not wanting it crushed. Another student on the list was told to enter the bus; there was room-for one. And then, the cold stopped, the wind clamed, and my bag was stowed under the bus. I climbed the stairs, sat down, and breathed in the warmth-I was on my way to Lisbon. After 8 hours in a cramped bus, the group arrived at out hotel, dropped our bags, and was off to the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, where Vasco de Gama is buried. Then, the group sampled custard treats in a local cafe, but for me, i took a shot of espresso and was off the Tour de Belem for sunset. The views were magnificent, and the water, even at night, was like bathwater. After riding a cable car to the Plaza de Comercio, the group met for dinner and Fado. Our next day was spent outside Lisbon, viewing the Cabo de Roca, the westernmost extremity of Europe, and then the town of Sintra. Sintra is situated at the base of a great mountain, covered in palaces, castles, and their surrounding parks and gardens. The town itself, with the chateaux above it, is simply magical. The houses are quaint and the streets are winding. There are gorges, with bridges and rivers, and panoramic views onto the surrounding countryside. Nothing in Europe can come as close to a fairytale village, as Sintra. After a harrowing ride along the steep cliffs and winding roads of the mountainside, we reached the top, where we then walked uphill to the Palacio de Pena, the greatest of all of Sintra´s castles. Built by an eccentric King and his jeweler friend, containing almost every architectural style since ancient Greece, and precariously situated at the very top of the mountain, Palacio Sintra is one of the greatest pleasure palaces of Europe. The interior is equally as varied as its exterior, providing the visitor an intimate look into the private life of the Royalty of Portugal. The day was soon spent, and after some pottery shopping in the village, we returned to the hotel. On Sunday, after packing our bags, we saw the castle of Lisbon, a great medieval style fortress, which offered spectacular views of Lisbon and the sea. I peeked into the cathedral before heading to lunch, and then, with sighs, we left for Madrid. Though Lisbon was 8 hours by bus from Madrid, the trip is well worth the excitement of its beauty or the calmness of its warm sea breeze.